Serious Eats

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• Sunday Supper: Spanish-Style Cod in Chorizo-Studded Tomato Broth
• Sunday Brunch: Olive Oil-Fried Eggs with Asparagus
• This Week at Serious Eats World Headquarters
• This Week on Serious Eats Chicago
• This Week on Serious Eats: New York
• Weekend Baking Project: Blueberry Cream Cobbler
• Open Thread: Do You Eat in Bed?
• Excellent Neapolitan Pies at Etto in Washington, DC

Sunday Supper: Spanish-Style Cod in Chorizo-Studded Tomato Broth Posted: 19 Jul 2013 03:02 PM PDT Zingy, Spanish chorizo-studded tomato broth is the foundation for this sautéed cod dish. [Photograph: Jennifer Olvera] Spicy and lively, this tomato broth is stippled with nubs of Spanish chorizo. Don't use the Mexican kind—it's entirely different. If you can't get your hands on this tasty, dry sausage, you can substitute bits of pancetta. Unfortunately, you'll also lose loads of depth and smoky flavor. While this dish traditionally calls for the cod to be poached in the broth, I like the textural contrast of crispy, skin-on fish. Just take care not to overcook your fish—a few minutes on both sides is all it needs. Pull it from the heat when it's firm and no longer translucent, right about the moment before you think it's done. If cod isn't in the cards, any other flaky white fish, including tilapia, will do the trick. Just reduce the cooking time for a thinner fillet. To make this a more substantial meal, serve with roasted potatoes or saffron-infused rice. Note: Paprika-scented Spanish chorizo is worlds apart from the Mexican version, so they aren't interchangeable. Buy it at well-stocked grocery stores, or order it from a purveyor like www.tienda.com. About the author: Jennifer Olvera is a veteran food and travel writer and author of "Food Lovers' Guide to Chicago." Follow her on Twitter @olverajennifer. Get the Recipe!

Sunday Brunch: Olive Oil-Fried Eggs with Asparagus Posted: 19 Jul 2013 02:34 PM PDT Editor's note: Each Saturday morning we bring you a Sunday Brunch recipe. Why on Saturday? So you have time to shop and prepare for tomorrow. [Photograph: Sydney Oland] If you've never fried an egg in lots of olive oil, you're missing out on some major crisp, puffy, runny action. But be warned, it's hard to go back to the more modest fried egg once you've tried this version. This type of egg cookery is not for the faint of heart—when you drop the egg into the oil it splatters quite a bit. So please be careful if you're trying this out for the first time. If you're having people over for brunch, roast your asparagus before they arrive. It'll save you time and energy, and they're wonderful served at room temperature. Once company arrives, just fry up your eggs and brunch is ready to serve. About the author: Sydney Oland lives in Somerville, Mass. Find more information at sydneyoland.com (or read eatingnosetotail.com) Get the Recipe!

This Week at Serious Eats World Headquarters Posted: 19 Jul 2013 03:42 PM PDT VIEW SLIDESHOW: This Week at Serious Eats World Headquarters [Photographs: Robyn Lee, unless otherwise noted] This week we tasted lemon sorbet, ate too much mayonnaise, made lots of s'mores, and more. But you're probably more interested in Hambone and Yuba, who spent much of the week lying around because it's too damn hot for them to do anything else.

This Week on Serious Eats Chicago Posted: 19 Jul 2013 08:20 AM PDT From Chicago Staff Picks: What's the Best Pizza in Chicago? 11 Awesome Veggie Tacos in Chicago Scenes from Hot Doug's Book Signing Lunch in the Loop: U.B. Dogs The Brunch Dish: Haute Time Zone Cuisine at Central Standard Deep Fried Chicago: Cheesie's Pub & Grub Snacking on Central Asian Cuisine at Chill Cafe Serious Eats Neighborhood Guides: Catherine De Orio's West Loop A Sandwich a Day: Croque Madame at Chez Moi The Vegetarian Option: Yusho

This Week on Serious Eats: New York Posted: 19 Jul 2013 02:03 PM PDT From Serious Eats: New York 1. Where to Eat Near Times Square (Our Updated Guide) 2. What We're Eating: NYC Food Finds We've Loved of Late 3. Celeste: The Italian Restaurant Every Neighborhood Should Have (But Doesn't) 4. A Salt & Battery, New York's Top Fish and Chip Shop 5. All the Ramen at Ippudo's New Midtown Location 6. Dominque Ansel Bakery Now Torching Frozen S'mores 7. Steakcraft: S. Prime, A Boutique Steakhouse in Queens 8. What's Your Neighborhood Food Thing? 9. Details on the Museum of Food and Drink with Dave Arnold and Peter Kim 10. New York Chefs Answer 'What Has Cooking Taught You?'

Weekend Baking Project: Blueberry Cream Cobbler Posted: 18 Jul 2013 10:08 AM PDT From Sweets [Photograph: Lauren Weisenthal] This blueberry cobbler says summer in every bite. The crust is made of flaky, tender cream biscuits that have both a hint of salty sweetness and a bit of crunch. The filling is all about the blueberries, which bubble up and mingle with the topping. You can either make one large cobbler in a baking dish or make individual mini-cobblers in heatproof ramekins. Serve with cold vanilla ice cream and a slow summer sunset. Get the Recipe!

Open Thread: Do You Eat in Bed? Posted: 19 Jul 2013 01:53 PM PDT Yes, this is exactly what it looks like when I eat in bed...[Photograph: Shutterstock.com] I'll never forget the look in my boyfriend's eyes the first time he caught me. Shock, confusion, disgust, sorrow...even some pity. I, on the other hand, looked around anxiously, trying to spot the horrifying thing that must have been happening behind me. "Is there a bug?" I cried. "Get it off me!" The thing is, it had never even occurred to me to be ashamed of eating in bed. And why would it? Bed eating is my great love, my deepest comfort. Nothing, and I do mean nothing, makes me happier than curling up with some comfort food for a few episodes of crappy laptop TV. (Obviously the laptop's in there already. Where else would I keep it?) And hey—why stop at eating in bed when you can cook in bed, too? [Seinfeld Screenshot] Yeah, that's right. Sometimes, I make salad in bed. And yes, I can hear all your gasps and groans, the rapid contraction of your wrinkled, scrunched-up noses. Your visions of the pest-ridden squalor in which I must surely reside. There are few more contentious love-it-or-hate-it topics than bed eating. I should know—not only have I been oppressively banned from eating in my boyfriend's bed, but five years of trying to convince him to adapt has proved utterly fruitless (despite the fact that he is, in all other respects, completely whipped*). *Case in point, he has approved this message. So here's the thing. Before my all-time favorite place to eat gets relegated to the realm of dirty habit or guilty pleasure by all the self-righteous, highly vocal, naysaying Jamie Feldmars "normals" out there, I have to know—is there a movement of bed eaters out there, lying together in the dark, munching potato chips under the covers, collectively reveling in a state of gloriously sated solidarity? Bed eaters of the world, unite! Or just, you know, answer the question. Do you eat in bed, or what? A Parting Gift At least I'm not this guy! [Video: Seinfeld clip via Youtube.com] About the author: Niki Achitoff-Gray is the associate editor of Serious Eats and a part-time student at the Institute of Culinary Education. She's pretty big into pizza. Also, she likes offal. A lot.

Excellent Neapolitan Pies at Etto in Washington, DC Posted: 19 Jul 2013 01:20 PM PDT From Slice Etto's Margherita pie[Photographs: Brian Oh] Etto 1541 14th Street NW, Washington, DC 20005 (Map); 202-232-0920; ettodc.com Pizza type: Neapolitan Oven type: Red oak-fired The Skinny: Daily house milled flour and fresh ingredients make for understated, flavorful Neapolitan pies Price:$13 to $17 Ask a Washingtonian for recommendations on where newcomers should eat and more likely than not their list will include 2Amys and Standard. Shining stars of comforting Italian and neighborhood charm, respectively, it's hard to imagine any product of a collaboration of the two teams would be anything less than stellar. And sure enough, when 2Amys founders Peter Pastan and Amy Morgan teamed up with Standard co-owners Tad Curtz and David Rosner to quietly open Etto, they didn't disappoint. Etto's flour mill stationed prominently in the back of the dining room where flour is milled daily The little Italian shop opened in late May on D.C.'s increasingly saturated 14th street, a more intimate, mature version of 2Amys. Etto specializes in salami, anchovies, and, of course, pizza, setting itself apart from other wood-fired Neapolitan spots in town by milling its own whole grain daily, right in the shop. "It's not as pure as factory milled flour," says Curtz, "but it lends a richer, nuttier quality to the dough." The lack of aging also preserves much more of the flavor of the wheat. It's something that's immediately recognizable as you partake in one of pies. The crust is heartier, darker, and bolder than pies made of more finely milled flour. The oven is a red oak-fired oven that burns at a temperature that Curtz isn't overly concerned with. It burns slightly hotter than that of 2Amys, but "there are a lot more important things to worry about," says Curtz, "like whether or not the pizza looks and tastes good." It's a process that's "much less controlled than 2Amys" and results in a product that feels more organic and homemade. Impressive whole structure in the Margherita's flavorful, chewy crust At opening, Etto had a half dozen pies on the menu, including a classic Margherita ($17) and one topped with roasted cauliflower, capers, and anchovies ($17). The Margherita is an almost impeccable example of a fresh, understated classic. Topped minimally (bordering on sparsely) with substantial blobs of fresh, creamy buffalo mozzarella, scattered leaves of aromatic basil, and a light, tangy tomato sauce, Etto's Margherita is a thing of beauty. Prominent—at times excessive— leopard spotting marks the chewy crust, hinting at the less stringently controlled oven. The sweetness of the un-aged, loosely milled flour adds a pleasant dimension of flavor to its factory milled counterparts. Subtle, clean, and an impressive baseline for the newcomer. Etto's Roasted Cauliflower pie Moving on to a pie with more of Etto's personal touch, the Roasted Cauliflower pairs a wider range of flavors. It balances a strong dose of piquant saltiness from capers and anchovies with refreshingly earthy cauliflower. The sweetness of Etto's crust plays a larger role in complementing the saltiness here. For good measure, an extra layer of texture is provided by pine nuts and breadcrumbs. It's an impressive balancing act, but not overwrought. The bottom of the pies are thin, crispy, and hold up well throughout a meal, but may be a little more charred than some might prefer One caveat is that the prolific charring of the crust occasionally borders on being burnt and may be a turn-off to some. It never reached that level for me, though; I fully expect any inconsistencies in the firing to be worked out as the team has more time to perfect their method. Etto is a welcome addition to 14th St., which, despite seeing an absolute deluge of openings so far in 2013, still lacked a killer Neapolitan pie. Come for the pies, stay for the excellent cured meats and wine. About the author: Brian Oh is a Washington, DC based international development professional, food lover, and photographer. In his free time, you can usually find him chasing down a good burger or slice. Follow him on Twitter @brianoh11

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