Serious Eats |
- Skillet Suppers: Pasta with Sausage, Squash, and Spinach
- Open Thread: What's Your Preferred Pop-Tart?
- A Salt & Battery, New York's Top Fish and Chip Shop
- Beating the A/C with Tagine at Shokran
- First Look: Mike Isabella's Kapnos, Washington DC
- A Sandwich a Day: Italian Deli Classics with a Twist at Il Salumaio
- Beyond Curry: Aromatic Indian Shrimp Pilaf (Kolambi Bhaat)
- 3 Things to Try if You Make it to the Front of the Line at Coyle's Bakeshop, Seattle
- A Hamburger Tuesday: Wild Turkey, Juicy Lucy, Pizza Oven Sliders, and More
- Drink Your Watermelon: 5 Great Recipes for Summer Sipping
- New York Chefs Answer 'What Has Cooking Taught You?'
- Lunch in the Loop: U.B. Dogs
- Dear Tim's Potato Chips: I Think I'm in Love
- Los Angeles: Bestia Hits its Stride
- Great Tacos and Quesadillas at Los Tacos No. 1 in Chelsea Market
| Skillet Suppers: Pasta with Sausage, Squash, and Spinach Posted: 15 Jul 2013 01:15 PM PDT [Photographs: Yasmin Fahr] This simple and inexpensive dish gets its flavor from spicy Italian sausage, along with color and nutrients from spinach. Because the tomato sauce is made in the same pan that the sausage was browned in, it gets a huge flavor boost from the start, which you'll definitely appreciate at the end. Overall, it's an easy dinner to throw together and the leftovers are even better the next day, or so I hear... I developed this recipe during the heat streak in New York; since my apartment doesn't have AC, cooking was out of the question. Instead, I had to seek recipe-testing-refuge in my sister's apartment. Which also means that that she got the leftovers and I got a text the next day saying, "The pasta tastes even better for lunch!" Sometimes I like grating extra cheese in the sauce while it's cooking for added flavor, but that's up to you. You can also skip the squash or use other seasonal vegetables in its place. If spicy Italian's not your thing, feel free to substitute with a chicken or turkey sausage instead. About the Author: Yasmin Fahr is a food lover, writer, and cook. Follow her @yasminfahr for more updates on her eating adventures and discoveries, which will most likely include tomatoes. And probably feta. Happy eating! Get the Recipe!       |
| Open Thread: What's Your Preferred Pop-Tart? Posted: 16 Jul 2013 10:06 AM PDT
[Photograph: Wikipedia] When I was a kid, my mother only allowed the consumption of Pop-Tarts once a year, during our annual summer beach vacation. With such a limited timeframe, I had to be careful about flavor selection, because the only thing worse than not being allowed to eat Pop-Tarts is winding up with a box of Wild Berry Pop-Tarts during the one week a year you can get away with eating them. So I played it straight, sticking to classic Frosted Strawberry, or, very occasionally, branching out to Frosted Brown Sugar Cinnamon. My technique involves gentle toasting, and a swift eating all around the biscuit edges to savor the jelly/frosting filling in the middle. Unsurprisingly, it turns out that Serious Eaters are very particular about their Pop-Tart preferences. Ad Sales Director Jen also goes Frosted Strawberry, but leaves the pastry untoasted ("I don't like warm fruit") and will eat around the entire edge carefully, then sometimes discard the core. Sweets editor Carrie is another Frosted Strawberry fan, but as far as she's concerned, toasting is a must: "It really brought home the power of heat and acted as a precursor to baking for me," she says. "It makes it taste so much better." New York Editor Max, however, goes the total opposite: he's an ice-cold 'Smores or Chocolate Peanut Butter man—quite literally, as his preferred temperature is frozen. One thing we can all agree on: "There's absolutely nothing worse than a "healthy" imitation Pop-Tart without frosting," says Cereal Eats columnist Leandra. So, what's your preferred Pop-Tarts flavor, temperature and eating technique? Tell us in the comments! About the author: Jamie Feldmar is a noodle aficionado, barbecue lover, and the managing editor of Serious Eats. You can follow her on Twitter at @jfeldmar. But wait, there's more! Follow Serious Eats on Facebook, Twitter and Pintrest!    |
| A Salt & Battery, New York's Top Fish and Chip Shop Posted: 16 Jul 2013 12:54 PM PDT [Photographs: Nick Solares] Many years ago there, was a fish 'n chips shop on 14th and 2nd Avenue called English Harbour. It did nothing to reform America's dire view of British cuisine or differentiate authentic British style fish 'n chips from the insipid, generic fish and fries sold at national chains and diners. Frying fish, despite its seemingly elemental process is a delicate art. Any fool can batter a piece of fish and fry it to a golden crust—English Harbour was a case in point—but to preserve the delicacy of the fishes texture and illicit its flavor requires skill and craft. Fortunately, A Salt & Battery opened shortly after English Harbour closed, and for the ex-pat or anyone that has enjoyed the real deal in the UK, New York was finally blessed with a true fish 'n chip shop. A Salt & Battery became the standard bearer for the authentic chip shop experience in Manhattan and helped give the cuisine some much needed legitimacy. For a spell they even had an outpost in the East Village on Second Avenue, which sadly has since shuttered. A decade on and, as recent visit confirmed, they are still churning out a top quality product. There have been some changes—admirably, cod has been replaced by pollock because of concerns about sustainability—and of course there has been some price creep. But A Salt & Battery offers as close to the authentic chippy experience as one could hope to find outside of the UK. Sole and chips. My favorite fish in UK chip shops is plaice; the closest thing on the menu here is sole ($11 with chips), which is close enough to take me most of the way home. The fish has a delicate texture and mild flavor. It isn't as meaty as cod or pollock, but it has a pleasing litheness. It is expertly battered and fried here—the shatteringly crisp crust has a pure flavor that allow the fish to express itself. The innards are soft and flaky. Chips. The chips ($5) are suitably chunky and golden. Please resist the urge to douse them in ketchup—lashings of vinegar and a flurry of salt are the appropriate and most synergistic condiment. I wish that A Salt & Battery was more militant about ketchup, as putting it out on the counter just encourages usage! Shrimp and chips. They do a near-perfect rendition of shrimp and chips ($15). The generous portion of shrimp is cooked until just past translucence, insuring tenderness with out veering into rubberiness. Battered sausage. A banger ($6) that is deep fried is a dietitian's worst nightmare but a hangover's best friend. Admittedly it's a tough sell to the uninitiated, but once you break through the crisp crust into the juicy, herb-laced pork sausage, you'll be convinced. Baked beans and mushy peas. The mushy peas ($4) are made in-house and are blessedly free of the neon food dye that often plagues the dish back home. The beans ($4) are from Heinz—'nuff said! About the author: Nick Solares is a NYC-based food writer and photographer. He has published Beef Aficionado since 2007, with the stated purpose of exploring American exceptionalism through the consumption of hamburgers and steak. He has written over 350 restaurant reviews for Serious Eats since 2008 and served as the creative director for the award-winning iPad app Pat LaFrieda's Big App for Meat. You can follow him on Instagram (@nicksolares) and Twitter (@beefaficionado).    |
| Beating the A/C with Tagine at Shokran Posted: 15 Jul 2013 09:00 AM PDT Photographs: Lindsey Howald Patton Okay. I already know what you're going to say. It's July. The humidity has arrived, temperatures have climbed above 80 degrees and are likely to stay there, Dennis is out in the park tasting watermelon soaked in lemonade, and all of our early 20th-century Chicago apartment buildings are dripping with the sweat of our hardworking window units. And here I am eating stew. But the thing about deep summer is that restaurants have the tendency to jack up the a/c to temperatures that have me thinking about winter way before I'm ready to. I don't mean to complain, but still. I get cold. So unless I'm dining al fresco, you'll often find me a) bundling up in a sweater or b) eating something to battle the chill. Like tagine. My tagine—a thick North African stew—was served in an actual tagine—a hardy earthenware pot—at Shokran, an easy-to-miss Moroccan restaurant a few steps east of the Irving Park Blue Line Station. But that may have been more for dramatic effect. When the funnel-shaped lid was whisked off tableside, letting out a puff of steam, everything was so artfully arranged I couldn't imagine that it had cooked itself out that way. I love a dish named after a place, so I tried the Marrakesh Lamb Tagine ($18), after the former south-central imperial city, and the Casablanca Chicken Tagine ($16), after where Rick's Café Americain served up gin to gambling expats during World War II (oh, and it's the largest city in Morocco, too). Neither were knock-out dishes, but then when is a stew? I imagine someone from Morocco might dig into one of these and sigh, "Just like Grandma's." Both were mellow and comforting, although the lamb won out in terms of the most familiar, stodgy, pot-pie kind of flavor (think gamey, tender meat and fresh peas popping in your mouth with each bite). Big slices of dense, olive oil-soaked marinated artichoke hearts were nestled in the dish in lieu of potatoes. I favored the chicken. The white meat was highlighter-yellow with turmeric, covered with mild-tasting onion bits so softened they had formed a kind of jam, and surrounded by even chunks of potato. Best were the bright bites that included wonderfully roasted whole olives or a bit of preserved lemon peel—I could have done with more of each. Shokran4027 West Irving Park Road, Chicago, IL 60641 (map)    |
| First Look: Mike Isabella's Kapnos, Washington DC Posted: 16 Jul 2013 12:14 PM PDT  VIEW SLIDESHOW: First Look: Mike Isabella's Kapnos, Washington DC Flatbreads and spreads [Photographs: Brian Oh] Note: First Looks give previews of new dishes, drinks, and menus we're curious about. Since they are arranged photo shoots and interviews with restaurants, we do not make critical evaluations or recommendations. Washington, D.C.'s deluge of spring restaurant openings may have tapered off a bit, but there are still a few left to watch. Take Kapnos (meaning 'smoke' in Greek), for instance. The latest establishment from Top Chef alum Mike Isabella welcomed its first customers last Friday to its fare share of fanfare. Isabella, formerly executive chef at Zaytinya, one of the city's Greek mainstays, has his roots in the cuisine—while Graffiato, his first Washington oeuvre, centers around the Italian-American food that he grew up with, Kapnos represents the food he cut his teeth on professionally. Isabella describes the menu as "focused, traditional; not your neighborhood gyro joint." Don't expect the typical fare that hails from southern Greece. "Most Americans associate Greek food with seafood and island cuisine," says Isabella. "While Kapnos draws inspiration from all over Greece, we're focusing on more meats from the North because we wanted to showcase a different side of Greek cooking." One step inside Kapnos and that intention is immediately apparent. Absent is the customary white and blue, replaced with earth tones, the dark purples and greens associated with the nation's north. Just past the prominently featured communal chef's table is a massive open kitchen, featuring two hickory wood-fire grills with whole animals on rotating spits. "No one else in D.C. is cooking whole animals on this level," Isabella explains. He's referring to the roughly 35 animals Kapnos goes through each week, including lamb, goat, suckling pig, duck, and chicken. The chef's table adjacent to Kapnos' open kitchen While the spit-roasted animals might be the flashiest thing at Kapnos, they're far from dominating the restaurant's menu. Roughly 60% of the selection is vegetarian or fish. The rest is broken up into a selection of spreads, accompanied by flatbreads, raw mezze, vegetable mezze, and seafood mezze. Plates like the Melitzanosalata Spread ($8; smoky eggplant, roasted peppers, walnuts, feta) and the Smoky Beets ($8; beets, yogurt, green peppercorn, citrus) make direct reference to the restaurant's namesake. By and large, dishes feature characteristically Mediterranean flavors—eggplant, cucumber, yogurts, and the like—but with a self-described Byzantine touch. Whole goat roasting in one of Kapnos' two large, open hickory-fired grills For those craving more traditional Greek fare—at least as its perceived in America—Isabella includes a "Classics" menu of rotating daily specials. Dishes like a Moussaka ($9) and Keftedes ($8) will be available on different days of the week, along with larger, family-style dishes for the table like a Whole Bronzino ($34) or a Whole Lamb Shoulder ($79). Can't make up your mind? Diners can also reserve a dinner at the chef's table for a multi-course meal that includes tastes from across the menu, along with a whole lamb shoulder carved table-side by the chef. Over at the bar, Isabella's longstanding beverage director, Taha Ismail, is crafting seasonal cocktails. For a Greek touch, there are kegged lemonades ($11 glass; $42 bottle) coming in gin, rum, and Skinos (a Mediterranean liqueur) varieties. Rounding out the beverage program are a few summer wines on tap, a broader selection of domestic and European wines, and select cocktails served in shareable jugs. For a sampling of what Isabella is doing at Kapnos, check out some of the dishes in the slideshow » Kapnos    |
| A Sandwich a Day: Italian Deli Classics with a Twist at Il Salumaio Posted: 16 Jul 2013 08:10 AM PDT In this great city of ours, one could eat a different sandwich every day of the year—so that's what we'll do. Here's A Sandwich a Day, our daily look at sandwiches around New York. Got a sandwich we should check out? Let us know. —The Mgmt. [Photographs: Andrea Kang] Il Salumaio is the newest Italian deli open in the Upper East Side. A small space managed by a more than friendly staff, the sandwich shop is a destination we would gladly visit again for a quick lunch fix. The sandwiches hew close to deli classics, but with some subtle twists. For one there's the Arthur Avenue ($11.98 on a hero, focaccia, or ciabatta; about $9 on a roll), Il Salumaio's take on an Italian combo. The thinly sliced ham, mortadella, salami, and prosciutto are commendable if lightly applied; in place of sliced tomatoes were halved sweet cherry tomatoes dressed in syrupy balsamic. The lettuce is chopped rather than shredded, adding a refreshing crunch. The only annoying tick here is that the tomatoes squeeze right out with each bite—but it is fun to pick up the leftover halves and pop them into your mouth as a nice afterthought. But the sandwich is satisfying all the same—huge but not tooweighty—and definitely not for the light-hearted. The deli's eponymous sandwich, the Il Salumaio ($11.98 on focaccia) is a simple prosciutto and mozzarella bolstered with olives. We were impressed by the quality of fillings: thin, thin ham, milky mozzarella made in-house, and bold olives (the olives vary, but we dug our firm Sevillianos). If this deli has an issue, it's the bread. The hero could have been more fresh, but it works. The focaccia leaves more to be desired. It's thin, plain-tasting, and lacking in texture. But it still forms the base for a solid sandwich we'd hit up the next time we're on the Upper East Side About the author: Andrea Kang is a rising senior magazine journalism student at Northwestern University. She is the editor in chief of Spoon Magazine, Northwestern's campus food publication, and loves to blog about her food adventures at The Sunny-Side Up Kitchen.    |
| Beyond Curry: Aromatic Indian Shrimp Pilaf (Kolambi Bhaat) Posted: 16 Jul 2013 06:23 AM PDT [Photograph: Prasanna Sankhe] If, like me, you love rice and have a soft spot for seafood, you're bound to find this dish irresistible. It uses a host of whole spices that create a wonderfully heady aroma. Kolambi Bhaat literally translates to shrimp pilaf; it's an especially popular meal along India's west coast, where there's an abundant supply of fresh seafood. Despite its many ingredients, this pilaf isn't difficult to prepare. The whole spices, coconut milk and subtle hint of chilies make it more fragrant than spicy. And, of course, basmati rice contributes another perfumed layer to the flavor profile.You can have this pilaf on its own or add some papadums for crunch and raita(yogurt salad) for pleasant contrast. About the author: Denise Dsilva Sankhe is a writer & creative director by profession. But that's only when she isn't eating her way across India. She recreates this delicious cuisine in her Mumbai home, which she shares with her husband, who has long since given up his determination to have salads for dinner. Get the Recipe!    |
| 3 Things to Try if You Make it to the Front of the Line at Coyle's Bakeshop, Seattle Posted: 16 Jul 2013 11:27 AM PDT Cherry-Almond Croissants [Photographs: Jay Friedman] Opening just one day per month is one way to build demand for a budding bakery business, but success isn't ultimately possible without offering quality. Rachael Coyle, former pastry chef at Seattle's Le Pichet, serves up such quality at her monthly pop-up Coyle's Bakeshop. Coyle is currently the culinary director of the Book Larder, where food-loving Seattleites flock for books, readings, cooking demonstrations, and classes. It's also the location of the pop-up, which happens on the first Saturday of the month. If you're lucky enough to be at the front of the line—we which recommend as the selection runs out pretty quickly—you'll find the store's demonstration table filled with a carefully curated selection of Coyle's pastries, cakes, homemade marshmallows, sticky toffee pudding, salted caramels, and other sweet treats. (There's also a savory selection or two.) Coyle's Bakeshop has plain croissants, but if they're available, go for the Cherry-Almond Croissants ($3.25). The same croissant dough is layered with almond cream and sour cherries, which give the pastry a blast of tart fruit flavor. The crispy pastry has an extra crunchy texture thanks to a sprinkling of toasted almond slivers soaked in a light almond-citrus syrup. Apricot-Almond Tarts Fresh Strawberry, Passion Fruit Meringue, and Apricot-Almond tarts were all available and all tempting. I chose the latter ($6.00)—it's filled with apricots and almond cream. The sweet and slightly tart flavor of the fruit is emboldened by a glaze of apricot and vanilla bean preserves. I enjoyed the filling, though the pâte sucrée perhaps needed salt to bring out some sweetness in the otherwise nicely crumbly tart shell. Pistachio Praline Cream Puffs The Pistachio Praline Cream Puff ($1.50)—which Coyle says is inspired in part by the classic French wedding cake called croquembuche in which choux pastry balls are bound with caramel and built into a tower—is a two-pronged attack on pistachios. First, it's filled with a pastry cream laced with homemade pistachio butter, then it's topped with chopped pistachios pieces. But before those pistachio pieces are added, the cream puff is dipped in caramel, which hardens up to give the pastry a glass-like crunchiness. This delicate dessert is one you'll want to eat as quickly as possible after production to appreciate the textures and temperatures. In the future, when Coyle transitions her Bakeshop from pop-up to brick-and-mortar, I'd love to have these puffs made to order if possible. Coyle's Bakeshop4252 Fremont Ave North, Seattle, WA 98103 (map) About the author: Jay Friedman is a Seattle-based freelance food writer who happens to travel extensively as a sex educator. An avid fan of noodles (some call him "The Mein Man"), he sees sensuality in all foods, and blogs about it at his Gastrolust website. You can follow him on Twitter @jayfriedman.    |
| A Hamburger Tuesday: Wild Turkey, Juicy Lucy, Pizza Oven Sliders, and More Posted: 15 Jul 2013 02:16 PM PDT  VIEW SLIDESHOW: A Hamburger Tuesday: Wild Turkey, Juicy Lucy, Pizza Oven Sliders, and More We've got five great burgers in this week's A Hamburger Tuesday made with wild turkey, stuffed with cheese, cooked in a pizza oven, and more. Check out what your fellow AHT'ers are making at home by clicking through the slideshow » Want to share your homemade burgers on AHT? We want to see them! All we need from you is a photo of the burger, a description of the burger, and your name. Head over here for complete submission details » Looking for inspiration? Check out our 2013 Serious Eats Guide to Grilling Burgers, browse our burger recipes, or get cooking tips from The Burger Lab. We're taking submissions for next week's A Hamburger Tuesday until the end of the week. About the author: Robyn Lee is the editor of A Hamburger Today and takes many of the photos for Serious Eats. She'll also doodle cute stuff when necessary. Read more from Robyn at her personal food blog, The Girl Who Ate Everything. Love hamburgers? Then you'll Like AHT on Facebook! And go follow us on Twitter and Pinterest while you're at it!    |
| Drink Your Watermelon: 5 Great Recipes for Summer Sipping Posted: 13 Jul 2013 12:50 PM PDT [Photo: Robyn Lee] Eating watermelon isn't that far off from drinking watermelon: this fruit is pretty juicy stuff. Which means it's also pretty easy to turn your favorite hot-pink summer treat into something sippable. Watermelon has a great affinity for tart lime and delicately flavored spirits; here are a few of our favorite recipes for summer watermelon drinks. Fresh Watermelon Margaritas[Photo: Robyn Lee] Back away from the bottled mix! It is so easy to make fresh fruit margaritas at home, and so much more delicious than anything that comes pre-packaged. This naturally pink drink starts with seedless watermelon, whirled in a blender with tart lime, tequila, and a pinch of salt. Instead of triple sec, this margarita has a touch of sweetness and delicate floral flavor from elderflower liqueur. Watermelon Limeade[Photo: Autumn Giles] This refreshing booze-free drink is as simple as can be: watermelon, lime, and a little agave nectar. It's guaranteed to be the prettiest drink at the barbecue, and if anyone wants to spike it, they can easily add a little gin to their cup. Fresh Watermelon Sangria[Photo: Robyn Lee] You can make sangria all year, but summer versions have a way of being more fun, since you have access to all sorts of fresh fruit. If you've already made a classic white or red sangria, consider offering this unusual variation alongside it. This one's juicy with fresh watermelon and lots of lime, and the rum and Cointreau give it a bit of tropical flavor. Insandiary[Photo: Jessica Leibowitz] Ever sprinkled watermelon or cantaloupe with a little salt? It really brings out the flavor. That's one reason we like the spicy chili rim on this drink: it's both sweet and salty, elevating the flavors of cocktail with every sip. This simple cocktail is a good place to use your favorite silver tequila. Here are a few we love. Fresh Watermelon and Cucumber Juice[Photo: Carolyn Cope] Summer parties in the sun tend to leave us dehydrated in the morning. Here's a cure: the juice from fresh watermelon and cooling cucumbers, plus a little mint to brighten it up. Pour a tall glass, put your feet up, and think of it as a little spa experience right at home. Looking for more summer drinks inspiration? Keep in the loop with our weekly newsletter.    |
| New York Chefs Answer 'What Has Cooking Taught You?' Posted: 16 Jul 2013 10:15 AM PDT  VIEW SLIDESHOW: New York Chefs Answer 'What Has Cooking Taught You?' Interviewing chefs is a curious beast. We do a great amount of research in preparation, so that the chef's most basic or most publicized bits of history are understood before we come up with questions of our own. Each restaurant has its own energy, and depending on the day we might meet someone extremely focused and calm or a bit of frustrated angst at being taken from what they commit to most fully; the beautiful and arduous task of making food for our critical New York audience. And oftentimes we sit in fascinating conversation full of soul, and the thoughts and opinions expressed to us help us shape what we understand of the food being made in New York right now. So while we continue with this series, we've compiled a few outtakes from the past six months of We Chat With interviews. In most of them, we've ended a lingering conversation with, "What has cooking taught you about yourself that you've had to overcome?" Click on the slideshow above for some recent answers, or head straight to one below. Daniel Boulud: Train the Next Generation About the author: Jacqueline Raposo writes about people who make food and cooks things now and then for her bread and butter. Read more at www.WordsFoodArt.com or tweet excessively with her at    |
| Posted: 16 Jul 2013 07:40 AM PDT Editor's Note: Whether you're a tourist or an office worker in downtown Chicago, you can get sick of eating at chain restaurants all day. So we've started a series to get you the lowdown on where to find a great and affordable lunch. [Photographs: Dennis Lee] Nick covered U.B. Dogs for a Standing Room Only post about a year and a half ago, and I figure that's long enough in Internet time so that you guys have forgotten about it. You know, so this post seems as fresh and as beautiful as a daisy. A daisy like me. Daisy Dennis. Wow. It's only the first paragraph and I'm already calling myself Daisy Dennis. Looks like I've been roasting in the sun a little too long. In any case, as Nick pointed out in his post, there's an odd dearth of hot dog joints in the Loop. You'd think a city that has its own hot dog style would have more banged up stands downtown, but you'd be wrong. Dead wrong. He's already explored the classic dog, the Italian beef, and the burger, so I've decided to take an off-the-beaten-path approach for this post and try some of the other items. I'm just going to go straight for the weird stuff and start with the Joey Dog ($2.99), which is a Vienna hot dog covered in fries, garlic wasabi aioli, and Tabasco. Yes, you read that right. I almost couldn't believe it either, but I've seen crazier. One time when I was a kid, I made a sandwich with Wonder bread, American cheese, pickle relish, and grape jelly, and I ate the whole thing. I can still taste the memory (please make it stop), and all I can say is that I was a really strange kid, and it's made me into the lonely adult I am today. I suppose the Joey Dog is sort of like a Depression Dog with the fries on top, but that's pretty much where the similarity ends. I just don't know about you, Joey. The Tabasco is the strongest flavor, the garlic wasabi aioli doesn't come through much except for moisture, and the fries add crisp fried starch. The Vienna hot dog is snappy, salty, and satisfying, but the toppings don't play well together whatsoever. Chili cheese dogs are a guilty pleasure of mine. They're hugely messy, you end up wearing some sort of stain on your shirt for the rest of your day, and your hands smell like onions for pretty much forever. U.B. Dog's chili cheddar dog ($3.59) is topped with a giant ladleful of chili, and layered with Merkt's cheddar, all on a wonderful Vienna hot dog, which is cooked perfectly (you'd be surprised how many places seem to screw them up). The problem here is that the chili just doesn't have any character. It looks like chili and tastes like chili, but no particular seasoning stands out; it's not entirely flavorless, but nothing comes forward. If you're going to invest your shirt in a risky high-stakes endeavor, the chili better be worth it, you know? When Nick reviewed U.B. Dogs earlier, he punted on the review for the burger to a more seasoned burger aficionado (who happens to be me, now). The char burger ($4.29) at U.B. Dogs is surprisingly lean, at a 90/10 lean to fat ratio. We burger nerds tend to agree that 80/20 is where you strike a perfect balance between meat and moisture, and you can tell that it makes a difference in this char burger. It is dry, but the good news is that it's got a rounded and deeper beef flavor than other places I've been, and the good char accents it even further. The toppings, including the Merkt's cheddar (other cheeses are available) add some moisture back into the dry coarse grind, but in the end, can't change the nature of the beef. And the bun is interesting: in person it's actually closer to a mahogany color, and it adds an almost bitter, toasted flavor to each bite. It's very sturdy, and doesn't fall apart. I can't say I've had a bun quite like it. The fries ($1.75 for regular, $2.75 for large) are good, and are the type with the crisp, slightly oily, brown exterior with a mashed-potato center. One of the things at U.B. Dogs that you might not ordinarily expect is the five different dipping aiolis for your spuds. My favorite is easily the mango-habanero ($0.50), which is distinctly sweetened by mango, and it has a fruity pepper kick from the habanero without too much scary burning sensation. The chipotle aioli is smoky and slightly bitter, with a touch of tomato. And the garlic-wasabi, the same aioli that comes on the Joey Dog, is easier to taste on its own—it has a distinct wasabi flavor but without that sinus-clearing bite you get from that green horseradish, accented with a touch of garlic. So I'm going to let you guys in on a semi-secret thing here in Chicago called gravy bread ($1.75). It always comes as a side, and you don't see it at many places, though I'm sure most of them would let you order it off-menu. It's one of my favorite things ever. Are you ready? Gravy bread is a whole Italian roll, the same roll you get Italian beef on, just absolutely drenched in the au jus from the Italian beef. To be honest, the soaked bread is my favorite part of every Italian beef sandwich; it's soft, mushy (yes, mushy), savory, and beefy, and it's basically a vehicle for the jus so you're not caught drinking the stuff on its own. If you like your beef sandwiches dipped, you know exactly what I'm talking about—that soft, juice filled bun. U.B. Dog's version lets you taste that distinct oregano-punched spice blend they use to cook their beef that you might not detect as much in a bite of the regular sandwich. If you guys are looking for a place to mow down old favorites, U.B. Dogs is a great place for the usual suspects, like the decked out Chicago dog or the Italian beef, along with some well executed fries. But when you head towards uncharted territory, like with the Joey Dog, all bets are off. And if you didn't know about gravy bread, now you know, and you look like a pro. If you already knew about gravy bread, then, well, high five! Now down low. Too slow! U.B. Dogs185 N. Franklin Street, Chicago, IL 60606(map) About the author: After a failed attempt at starting a chain of theme restaurants called "Smellen Keller," Dennis Lee traveled the world to discover his true passion. Sadly, midwifery didn't pan out. Now he works in a cubicle, and screws around as much as possible. Follow his shenanigans on Twitter.    |
| Dear Tim's Potato Chips: I Think I'm in Love Posted: 16 Jul 2013 10:34 AM PDT
[Photographs: Kenji Lopez-Alt] Even though the ocean's on the wrong side and the oysters taste all funny, I've gotta admit, the West Coast has a few good things going for it. Better wineries, more dog-friendly cities, and an extra three hours to sleep every morning come to mind. Not to mention Tim's Cascade Potato Chips. That last one may be reason enough to make the cross-country jump. Tim's are as thick and crunchy as the thickest kettle-style chips around, but they take the care and effort to wash away your excess starches so that the chips stay pale golden instead of that acrid dark brown that seems to be the standard aesthetic for kettle-style chips. Think of them like standard Lay's chips, only thicker and crunchier, with a flavor that actually tastes like potatoes, not just the generic "fried" flavor of most other chips. Want to get to the real heart of the matter? Take a look at their surfaces: How's that for crunchy microblisters? They bubble and crisp like the best french fry, and that extra surface area adds extra crunch to every bite. The natural salted flavor is good, but I'm a salt and vinegar man myself, and Tim's does it well. Their chips go balls to the walls with the salt and the vinegar—they're the type of chips that can shock me awake when I'm starting to nod off after a long late-night drive. The energy drink of chips, if you will. Kettle brand chips may have won our own Salt & Vinegar Potato Chip Taste Test, open only to nationally distributed brands, but in my world, Tim's rocks all of them hard. Dear Tim's potato chips: I think I love you. About the author: J. Kenji Lopez-Alt is the Chief Creative Officer of Serious Eats where he likes to explore the science of home cooking in his weekly column The Food Lab. You can follow him at @thefoodlab on Twitter, or at The Food Lab on Facebook.    |
| Los Angeles: Bestia Hits its Stride Posted: 16 Jul 2013 12:54 PM PDT Bestia2121 E 7th Pl. Los Angeles, CA 90021 (Map); 213-514-5724; bestiala.com The air sizzled with anticipation leading up to Bestia's opening last November. Time has not tempered the excitement. Any non-6 p.m. or 9:45 p.m. reservation must still be made one month in advance. Since the early days, dinner at Bestia has been splendid. As the kitchen tightens up and recipes get tinkered with, the food—specifically the pizza—gets better and better. Cars filing towards a valet stand are the only sign you've reached the restaurant. The corrugated metal façade, on a dead end street in Downtown Los Angeles, unassumingly looms over the worn down cobblestones. An unceremonious door leads through the patio, opening into a stunning main dining room that deserves a panoramic shot. Faces look familiar: I've spotted restaurateur Bill Chait and off duty bartenders enjoying libations. The kitchen's expediter's station is manned by up and comer, Avner. Hard at work is Sous Chef Mikey, formerly of Sotto. Even Slice'r Noel Brohner consulted on fermentation issues during the opening and remains on hand as needed. The Bestia crew is solid, to say the least.
The roaring red Acunto / Avner and Chef Ori Menashe (grey bandana) finish pastas for the evening service The leader of the pack is Chef Ori Menashe, a veteran of LA favorites like Angelini Osteria and Pizzeria Mozza. Adjacent to the kitchen, Chef Menashe's wife, Pastry Chef Genevieve Gergis, executes some of the best desserts in LA. The synergy of the husband-and-wife team is palpable. Bestia's earlier pies only hinted at the balance now struck in pizzas like the Margherita ($15). The rich acidic sauce of La Vella San Marzano tomatoes, subtly seasoned with garlic, is studded with puddles of mozzarella. Whole basil leaves are charred under a glossy drizzle of smooth olive oil. Finished with just enough sea salt to bind the acid of the tomato and sweetness of the cheese, the moist (but not quite soupy) center is a cohesive pool of flavors. The pies are served uncut; when the waiter offered to have the kitchen slice them for us, we declined, instead diving in with our forks and knifes. There is a light crispness to the undercarriage that gives way to the rich olive oil that seeps beneath the crust. The Gorgonzola ($18) pie arrives filled with a glossy lake of molten mozzarella and the faint tangy sweetness of gorgonzola dolce. The youth and high moisture content of the cheese delivers just an hint of funky blue spread throughout the buttery body. Kale leaves, dusted with Grana Padano, create delicate ridges of crisp roughage. These elements would overwhelm a traditional Neapolitan crust, but Bestia's is ample enough to withstand the barrage of flavors. The pizzas deceive the eye. Huge swollen lips of cornicione resemble an amped up Neapolitan pie, but the differences are notable. The crust, retarded 36-48 hours, comes out as a relaxed circle of heavily charred crust with a moist, bread-like crumb. The variable hole structure is gorgeous. A naturalist pattern of fermentation and heat. A faint tartness tickles the finish of each bite. There are ample bones on this pie; even I found them a bit monotonous to chew through. The solution is obvious: order one of Bestia's outstanding pastas. Once the al dente noodles are devoured, sop up a truffle-hued butter or ragu with the crust. About the author: Kelly Bone lives in Los Angeles writing The Vegetarian Foodie. She spends the rest of her time designing office cubicles... you might be sitting in one right now! Follow her on Twitter at @TheVegFoodie    |
| Great Tacos and Quesadillas at Los Tacos No. 1 in Chelsea Market Posted: 15 Jul 2013 02:55 PM PDT [Photographs: Andrea Kang] Among the recently renovated Chelsea Market's lunch options is the newcomer Los Tacos No. 1, a small stall owned by three friends looking to make real-deal tacos for New Yorkers. You may be skeptical about a Chelsea Market taco stand, and we were too, but after trying most of the menu (gulps of horchata included), you can color us impressed. At Los Tacos No. 1 there is a two-line system: first pay, then submit your order to the cooks. While the first line moves fairly quickly, the busier second "line" takes some time—the "line" is really just a free-for-all where the pushier customers win. If there aren't many people, the wait is five to ten minutes; if there is a crowd, good luck. But once your order's in, you can customize your meal down to the type of tortilla—corn or flour. Also at the counter are stone bowls holding limes, grilled jalapeños and scallions, salsa verde, and other condiments. The tacos ($2.50 to $3.50 depending on filling) and quesadillas ($3.50 to $4.50) come piping hot, and though small in size they're filled to the brim. Once we started digging in, it was obvious why the lines were so long. These guys do tacos right. Hand-made tortillas have a large factor in this—here they have a delicate corn flavor, tender, fluffy texture and are just thick enough that they don't have to be double layered. The pico de gallo is fresh with a balanced touch of cilantro, and the salsa packs substantial heat. But the stall's signature is the smooth guacamole, light and creamy, as spreadable as the salsa. From left to right: Nopal, carne asada, and pollo asado tacos. The carne asada is tender and well-seasoned, but most importantly, the cooks leave it on the flat top long enough to develop real smoky char. The pollo asado, cut into small chunks, is juicy and flavorful. The nopal, or grilled cactus paddle is the weakest of the bunch, bland, a little slimy, and not much smoky flavor. Adobada taco. Our favorite is the bright cherry red adobada (marinated pork), which is nicely charred from its long turn on the spit, slightly sweet, and full of a gentle, vinegary heat. Adobada quesadilla. The quesadillas hold up well to the tacos. In our pork version there's a layer of crispy cheese lining one side, topped with smoky abodaba, melted cheese, fresh cilantro, pico de gallo, salsa, smooth guacamole, and slivers of juicy, sweet pineapple. It's a complex, balanced quesadilla, a far cry from gooey cheese-stuffed American attempts. Guacamole and chips. If you are looking for a more substantial meal, order the guac and chips as well. The corn chips come in wide triangles generously piled into a white wax paper bag. They are thin but sturdy with a great, satisfying crunch and corn flavor. The chips are salted and seasoned well, with a slight spice, and the guacamole is barely chunky with small chopped tomatoes and a little cilantro. Horchata. To finish off, order an ice-cold horchata. With a mild rice flavor and subtle cinnamon undertones, the drink is refreshing, creamy and not too sweet. The horchata here is thin, but not watery, and it finishes with a pleasant milkiness. The only trouble is the wait. Go before or after peak lunch hours to avoid long lines, and park yourself by the windows to eat your meal right away—these tacos aren't made to wait long. About the author: Andrea Kang is a rising senior magazine journalism student at Northwestern University. She is the editor in chief of Spoon Magazine, Northwestern's campus food publication, and loves to blog about her food adventures at The Sunny-Side Up Kitchen.    |
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