Serious Eats |
- Sauced: Extra-Smooth Hummus
- First Look: Farmside Dining at Eden East in Austin, Texas
- Bronx Eats: Get to Know Memelas at Estrellita Produce, Mott Haven
- Bake the Book: Popcorn Chive Blossom Cupcakes
- Serious Eats City Guides: Kevin Nashan's St. Louis
- Memphis: The Oklahoma-Inspired John T. Edge Burger Debuts At Hog & Hominy
- Eggplant Three Ways at Noon-O-Kabab
- Vegetarian: Torn Pasta Sheets with Brown Butter, Herbs, and Poached Eggs
- First Look: The Butterfly, Michael White's Supper Club
- Jason Gehring's Guide to DC Sweets
- Dear Slice: Texas Pizza Summit II
- What's Your Favorite Diner in New York?
- Ask a Bartender: What Drink Would You Bring Back?
- A Sandwich a Day: The Bluefish L.T. at Home Port's Back Door in Menemsha, MA
- Deep Fried Chicago: The Purple Pig
| Posted: 10 Jul 2013 01:07 PM PDT [Photograph: Joshua Bousel ] While hummus takes mere minutes to put together at home, I still buy it at the grocer's more often than not. Until recently, I just couldn't quite match the silky smoothness of the store-bought stuff. After posting my first hummus recipe, Serious Eaters told me the answer to this problem could lay in the chickpea skins—remove those and I'd be led on a direct path to the extra-smooth hummus I craved. I figured if I was going to go for it, I might as well go all the way. I started off this recipe with dried chickpeas that were soaked overnight, then cooked until soft throughout. After that came the painstaking, mind-numbing task of peeling each chickpea, an effort that kept me busy for well over half an hour. Finally, the hummus came together in a food processor, with very little variation from my standard recipe. What emerged was indeed exactly what I was looking for—a hummus with a great, consistent flavor delivered in a lusciously smooth fashion. Of course, this came with the price of excessive labor, which will probably keep me buying off the shelf. Still, it was great to have a large batch of naked hummus at home that I could split into many variations—my favorite being harissa and mint—and garnered praise from guests, whose inquires as to how I got it quite so smooth left me feeling totally fulfilled. Get The Recipe!About the author: Joshua Bousel brings you a new, tasty condiment each Wednesday and a recipe for weekend grilling every Friday. He also writes about grilling and barbecue on his blog Get the Recipe! |
| First Look: Farmside Dining at Eden East in Austin, Texas Posted: 10 Jul 2013 12:57 PM PDT  VIEW SLIDESHOW: First Look: Farmside Dining at Eden East in Austin, Texas Note: First Looks give previews of new dishes, drinks, and menus we're curious about. Since they are arranged photo shoots and interviews with restaurants, we do not make critical evaluations or recommendations. Austin Chef Sonya Coté (Hillside Farmacy, The Homegrown Revival) is no stranger to the farm-to-table movement. But last month, she brought the table to the farm, unveiling her latest venture, Eden East, located on Springdale Farm in the heart of East Austin. Coté is closely connected with the farm and its owners Glenn and Paula Foore—in fact, she was their first customer when the couple revived the land five years ago. The outdoor restaurant, which is reservation-only and only open on weekends, is comprised of a long kitchen trailer and several hand-carved tables. "It's the most badass kitchen I've ever had," Coté said. "The view from the kitchen is fantastic. You don't really get that at a brick and mortar restaurant." At night, bulbs hanging from the trees and live music create the atmosphere. Everything on the menu except the proteins are sourced on-site. "We look at the farm stand on Wednesday morning and do a tour to see what else we can forage," said Coté. "We get the ingredients first, then create the menu, using every part of a product, including things like carrot blossoms and tops." The kitchen makes everything by hand, from oils to pastas to cheeses. Her vision is to connect city folks with their local food system. Once-disregarded East Austin now houses a tightly knit community of creative and passionate restauranteurs and farmers. "We get people to realize that we're lucky to have these urban farms and that it's super important to have a sustainable food system. I think Austin is doing a lot to show the rest of the country how it's done," Coté explained. The six to eight-course meals change weekly and cost $55-65, and drinks are strictly BYO. The bottom line directly helps the farmers: as Coté says, "By eating here, you're helping out the movement." Eden East755 Springdale Rd. Austin, TX. (map) (512) 386-8899 websiteBut wait, there's more! Follow Serious Eats on Facebook, Twitter and Pintrest! About the author: Melody Fury is a cocktail and restaurant writer, and photographer that lives in East Austin. Connect with her on Twitter and Facebook.        |
| Bronx Eats: Get to Know Memelas at Estrellita Produce, Mott Haven Posted: 10 Jul 2013 12:21 PM PDT Memela con salsa verde y carnitas. [Photographs: Chris Crowley] Have you ever seen a memela before? The Oaxacan corn cakes are seldom—if ever—seen in New York. Even with the proliferation of Mexican restaurants throughout the five boroughs, where not too long ago a decent taco was a myth, we're still limited to a small set of antojitos. Which is a shame, because, as good people know, you can never (and we mean ever) have enough masa snacks. Estrellita Produce, located just a few blocks from the 5/2 train stop at East 149th Street, serves the first memela ($4) that I've encountered in New York. The corn cake is like thicker tortilla, slapped on the comal and brushed with asiento (rendered pork lard.) As it cooks, its underside blistering, the cook pinches the sides, like with a picadita or sope, to form a crust. At Estrellita, you'll find memelas made fresh to order. The cook reaches into her bucket of masa, carefully forms a ball, and then flattens it into a pancake with her wooden tortilla press. The owners hail from Puebla, the southern border of which touches the Mixtec Baja of Oaxaca, and so this memela may differ from the one you had down in Oaxaca. They appear to be smaller and thicker than usual, like larger sopes from the same state. You won't find refried beans with them, much less mole negro, and the option for chorizo and potatoes is not available here. What you do get is a slathering of salsa (opt for the verde, which has a cheek-puckering tartness, and prickly heat), some shredded cabbage for crunch, crema and crumbly cheese, and meat. The toppings are added only after a second brush of asiento is applied. Carnivorous options cover the usual suspects, like chorizo and tinga. But you should really get the carnitas—and only the carnitas. You'll find them hiding in one of a couple crock pots the cook keeps at her station, sealed in a plastic bag. They can't compete with the weekend only, city-best carnitas at El Atoradero, but they still blow every other Bronx contender that I've had out of the water. Occasional bites yield an underseasoned or slightly drier piece of meat, but for the most part these carnitas are tender, well-seasoned, and deliciously porcine. They're the product of a cook who takes her pork seriously, and plenty of fat put to good use. About the author: Chris Crowley is the author of the Bronx Eats and Anatomy of A Smorgasburg Pop Up columns. Follow him on Twitter, if you'd like. In person, your best bet is the window seat at Neerob, or waiting in line at the Lechonera La Piranha trailer.    |
| Bake the Book: Popcorn Chive Blossom Cupcakes Posted: 09 Jul 2013 10:48 AM PDT [Photograph: Miana Jun] Soaking popcorn in milk and cutting blossoms from stems seem unlikely steps to make cupcakes, but Cooking With Flowers uses both to create these dainty desserts. Tips: Choose air-popped, lightly or non-salted popcorn for this recipe; popcorn popped in oil or fat will give the milk a funky flavor you don't want ending up in your cupcake. Tweaks: Taste the chive blossoms before you use them—if they're too strong for your liking, hold off on garnishing the cupcakes with them. Get the RecipePopcorn Chive Blossom Cupcakes » As always with our Bake the Book feature, we have five (5) copies of Cooking with Flowers to give away. Get the Recipe!    |
| Serious Eats City Guides: Kevin Nashan's St. Louis Posted: 10 Jul 2013 12:03 PM PDT
Kevin Nashan is at the forefront of the food scene in St. Louis, where he's seen a major culinary renaissance in the past eight to ten years. "St Louis was always in my heart when I left college—I knew I wanted to come back," he said. The five-time James Beard Award semifinalist worked in the kitchens of Daniel in NYC, Martin Berasategui in Spain, and Commander's Palace in New Orleans before returning to the Lou.
We caught up with Nashan to find out what he's eating when he's not at Sidney Street Cafe—here are his picks for the best bites of pizza, burgers, ice cream and more in St. Louis. Slice of Pizza: We love going to Pastaria with the kids. The Neopolitan-style pizza is delicious and the kiddos love the gelato. We also like Pi. Their Bucktown [with mozzarella, roasted chicken, artichoke hearts, red bell peppers, green olives, red onions, feta, and sun-dried tomatoes] is ridiculous. Burgers: Five Star Burgers' Hatch green chile burger brings me back to my New Mexico roots. If you like a big, beautiful burger running down your chin, then this place, owned by Steve Gontram's, is it. Packed with delicious sides and your own personal basket of fries you simply can't go wrong. Also, you can never go wrong with O'Connell's.
[Photograph: Crown Candy Kitchen] Ice Cream: Taking my kids to Crown Candy is such a treat. They crush it with their old-school malts. It's a St. Louis institution that's been around for 100 years! Coffee Shop: Sump has changed the coffee scene in St. Louis forever. They roast the beans really well and follow up with delicious java sourced with thought. We also love going to Kaldi's by our house, which has helped raise the bar as well for coffee in the Lou! Breakfast/Brunch:Winslow's Home is a Sunday tradition. Ask for their corn beef hash. At Brasserie, I could eat the entire menu...and sometimes I do. Dive Bar: J&A's in the Central West End is as dive-y as it gets. With cold PBR's, I'm in heaven.
Pappy's Smokehouse ribs. [Photograph: Jousha Bousel] Only-in-St.Louis: Pappy's Smokehouse for ribs will make you want to hug somebody after you put it into your mouth. Mai Lee for pho, yes, pho in the Midwest, it's off the chain. Date Night: Tony's, Farmhaus, and Niche just making living in St. Louis that much better, and they're perfect spots for date night with the wife. Late Night: Blood & Sand and Taste. Both places just kill it in the snack and cocktail department. Creative, fun, and certainly not to be missed. Markets: I always frequent the Maplewood market on Wednesdays. Great atmosphere and fun seeing all those families score fresh veggies. Love taking my kids too! My other favorite is the Tower Grove Market on Saturdays. I love seeing other chefs there, and it's also fun to see my customers there too. There's an excitement about a farmer's market, because all these people are there for the same reason. They want good high quality food—it's a little culture of its own. About the author: Erin is the former national managing editor of Serious Eats. You can follow her on Twitter: @erin_zimmer    |
| Memphis: The Oklahoma-Inspired John T. Edge Burger Debuts At Hog & Hominy Posted: 08 Jul 2013 01:49 PM PDT [Photographs: Dave Darnell] Hog & Hominy707 W Brookhaven Circle, Memphis TN 38117 (map); 901-207-7396; hogandhominy.com Get a load of the John T. Edge burger ($8), an oh-so-succulent sandwich now offered late nights Thursday through Sunday on the juke joint-style back porch at Hog & Hominy in Memphis. The wonderfully messy creation is chefs Michael Hudman and Andrew Ticer's meaty tribute to John T. Edge, the head of the Southern Foodways Alliance, prolific author (whose page-turners include the 2005 title Hamburgers & Fries: An American Story), occasional Iron Chef America judge, and all-around tastemaker. A few months ago when the chef duo was struggling to come up with a signature burger, John T. just happened to stop in at Hog & Hominy for lunch. "We didn't want to do a chef-y burger," said Michael. "Not that we don't love them, but we wanted to do something different." The pair had already played around with various renditions, but nothing was quite right. Then, John T. served up a suggestion: What about an Oklahoma-style onion burger, cooked crisp on the flat-top grill? A straightforward burger, 100 miles from fussy, with a laser focus on the flavor of the ground beef. "We started doing research and loved that this burger had history," Andrew said. The chefs' first order of business was sourcing a hindquarter of Angus beef from their favorite local rancher, Claybrook Farm. They broke it down and wore out a Kitchen Aid trying to come up with the right grind before investing in a Hobart and setting it to medium coarse. After the beef is ground, it gets rolled up into loose five-ounce balls and chilled. When the orders come in, those balls are smashed onto the sizzling hot flat-top and seasoned with a combination of salt, ground pepper, and housemade garlic powder. Before the patties are flipped, the uncooked sides get topped with thin slices of raw onion; after the flip, the onions caramelize under the patties as they cook. A slice of American cheese goes on top. Yes, American cheese. "We experimented with all sorts of cheese, but those slices gave us the crispy, almost burnt edges we were looking for," Andrew said. The patty is covered during the last few seconds of cooking to steam and allow the cheese to get extra gooey. Cooked medium rare, the patty is loaded onto a toasted Wonder Bread bun and finished with a squiggle of French's mustard. Shredded lettuce dressed in pickle juice makes for the burger's brilliant finish. Here's what makes it so darned satisfying: the meat, plain and simple, flattened so maximum surface area gets that crispy crust. Minimalist toppings play a supporting role, like The Jordanaires backing early Elvis. They're there, but they don't overpower the star. This would be a three-napkin sandwich if it weren't wrapped in waxed paper, adding to its nostalgic, almost home-cooked-by-grandma quality. It's the perfect thing to savor while sitting at picnic tables and listening to the house DJ spinning classic vinyl at Hog & Hominy's back porch bar, the Holding Pen. Michael Hudman and the John T. Edge burger. The John T. Edge burger made its debut last week, but I got a sneak preview while in Memphis for the World Championship Barbecue Cooking Contest, aka The Superbowl of Swine. It was an absolute miracle I managed to eat even half of this stellar burger, only because it came at the tail end of a magnificent marathon meal consisting of nearly everything on the menu at this crazy-popular neighborhood joint that specializes in pizza and craft cocktails, among other things on the ever-changing menu. (If it's available, don't miss the stunningly rich poutine—fries smothered in pork neck bone gravy—the sublime housemade, cheese-stuffed hot dog; the Caesar salad tossed with crispy chicken skin instead of croutons; the ultra-rich pork belly pizza; the salty-sweet parmesan gelato; and the elegant charcuterie plate. Oh, and the crackling, wicked spicy Buffalo pig tails, too. Lard Have Mercy!) No wonder these clever cooks wound up on the cover of June's Food & Wine, called out as some of the best new chefs in the country. So far, one of the highlights of this honor was shaking hands with Thomas Keller at the Aspen Food & Wine Classic last month: "He told us we were the future and we'd better not 'F' it up," Michael said. Not to worry, chef Keller. I bet that Keller, a big fan In-N-Out, would flip over the super-juicy John T. Edge burger. About the author: Seattle-based food and wine writer Leslie Kelly is a regular contributor to Seattle Magazine and Citysearch and writes about fan fare for the Seattle Mariners Magazine. She was formerly a restaurant critic for the Memphis Commercial Appeal and is a long-time member of the Southern Foodways Alliance. She also wrote a series for Serious Eats in 2009 called Critic-Turned-Cook. Love hamburgers? Then you'll Like AHT on Facebook! And go follow us on Twitter and Pinterest while you're at it!    |
| Eggplant Three Ways at Noon-O-Kabab Posted: 07 Jul 2013 11:22 AM PDT [Photographs: Lindsey Howald Patton] I know how popular Noon-O-Kabab's takeout is, but I'll always, always dine in. The service is excellent, the interior bright, and you are given—gratis—warm pita and a dish of fresh radishes, sliced onions, and fresh, creamy feta to snack on before your meal. I'll take that, as far as free starters go, over chips and salsa or baguette and olive oil any day. The Persian restaurant offers three eggplant appetizers, only one of which I'd ever tried anywhere, the ubiquitous baba ghannouj. There are dishes that you try and think, "Oh yeah, I could have done that at home," and then there are dishes that make you exclaim, "How did they do that?" Each of these dwells in the latter category for me. I literally dug in with a spoon when the pita was gone; despite the server's offer to bring more bread, I didn't need it. Each eggplant dish, which was surprisingly distinct in flavor and color from the others, was heavenly. The Caspian Eggplant ($7.95) is a brightly colored blend of sweet roasted skin-on tomatoes, eggplant, onions, and garlic, topped with a dollop of plain, tart yogurt to swirl in. It's a deceptively simple preparation, with a chunky texture and no need for additional salt or spices; that roasted flavor carries the dish. Noon-O-Kabab's Baba Ghannouj ($4.95 for small portion, pictured) is quite possibly the smokiest I've ever had. That amazing fire-charred flavor was complemented by a perfectly smooth texture, without a stray soggy bit of eggplant in sight (nor too much tahini—those are my two most common complaints about lesser baba ghannouj). A few shakes of sumac, the tart, ruby-colored spice in Parmesan cheese jars on every table, added a bright touch to the olive oil-laden spread. Kash-Ke-Bademjan is a stand-by Persian dish of eggplant, mint, onions, garlic, and kashk. The highlight here was the beautiful golden color from the turmeric and the final drizzle of kashk, which is an essential component of the puree. It's fermented whey, but tastes not at all like yogurt or sour cream, and more like a liquefied salty feta. I loved the chewy texture of the eggplant bits I found (again, with none of the sogginess that vegetable can be prone to when cooked) and the tangle of sweet caramelized onions heaped on top. Noon-O-Kabab4661 North Kedzie Avenue, Chicago IL 60625 (map)    |
| Vegetarian: Torn Pasta Sheets with Brown Butter, Herbs, and Poached Eggs Posted: 10 Jul 2013 11:23 AM PDT [Photo: Lauren Rothman] A couple of weeks ago, I stumbled across Sarah Karnasiewicz's Wall Street Journal article about chilaquiles, that classic hangover dish of oily tortilla chips, spicy salsa, and plenty of melty cheese that's particularly effective at sopping up any extra drinks from the night before. In her article, Karnasiewicz describes another day-after dish she relies on: a buttery tangle of torn lasagna noodles amped up with a touch of umami-rich soy sauce, brightened with fresh lemon juice, enriched with grated cheese, and made into a complete meal with the addition of a few runny poached eggs. Butter, cheese, and eggs all in one dish? That was a pasta I could get behind, I thought. The ingredients were in my shopping bag by the time I got home that evening. I made just a few small changes to Karnasiewicz's recipe, cutting down slightly on the luxurious amount of butter she called for, and thickening up the rich sauce with a few spoonfuls of starchy pasta water. I also quadrupled the amount of chopped fresh herbs in the original recipe; after all, this is summer, when herbs are in abundance and at their best. The resulting dish was everything I'd hoped for—nutty with brown butter, a little salty with soy sauce, but somehow, impossibly, light with zingy lemon juice and fragrant herbs. I'll definitely revisit this recipe the next time I've had one too many. Get The Recipe!Torn Pasta Sheets with Brown Butter, Herbs, and Poached Eggs » About the author: Lauren Rothman is a former Serious Eats intern, a graduate student of journalism, and an obsessive chronicler of all things culinary. Try the original recipes on her blog, For the Love of Food, and follow her on Twitter @Lochina186. Get the Recipe!    |
| First Look: The Butterfly, Michael White's Supper Club Posted: 10 Jul 2013 11:21 AM PDT  VIEW SLIDESHOW: First Look: The Butterfly, Michael White's Supper Club [Photographs: Nick Solares] Note: First Looks give previews of new dishes, drinks, and menus we're curious about. Since they are arranged photo shoots and interviews with restaurants, we do not make critical evaluations or recommendations. "Ed Levine has got to try out my patty melt" exclaimed Michael White of his new sandwich that uses his proprietary dry aged blend. (Ed has made no secret of his love for the sandwich.) That's one way to start a photo shoot at The Butterfly, White's new downtown cocktail bar and supper club in collaboration with cocktail wiz Eben Freeman. The food is a departure from White's renowned Italian cooking, focusing more on American comfort food classics like the aforementioned patty melt, fried chicken, and spinach and artichoke dip. Take a look at some of the food, and shots of the interior, in the slideshow above. The Butterfly225 West Broadway, New York 10013 (map) About the author: Nick Solares is a NYC-based food writer and photographer. He has published Beef Aficionado since 2007, with the stated purpose of exploring American exceptionalism through the consumption of hamburgers and steak. He has written over 350 restaurant reviews for Serious Eats since 2008 and served as the creative director for the award-winning iPad app Pat LaFrieda's Big App for Meat. You can follow him on Instagram (@nicksolares) and Twitter (@beefaficionado).    |
| Jason Gehring's Guide to DC Sweets Posted: 09 Jul 2013 02:16 PM PDT Astro Doughnuts and Fried Chicken's Chef Jason Gehring [Photograph: Scott Suchman] Formerly the pastry chef at high caliber restaurants Fiola and Poste, Chef Jason Gehring is now helping lead the doughnuts and fried chicken madness sweeping the District at the aptly named Astro Doughnuts and Fried Chicken. You don't make the Twinknut (that'd be a doughnut that plays homage to the Twinkie) without having a sweet tooth, so it's no surprise that Gehring knows a thing or two about sweets in town. Here are his picks for DC.
Gehring's PicksCupcake: Baked & Wired. The chocolate peanut butter cupcake or the German chocolate cupcake and iced coffee—I dream about these. Croissant: Le Caprice. A friend of mine introduced me to this place. Every time she has brunch at her place she buys a bunch and serves them with Amish butter and her own boozy raspberry jam. It's heaven. Ted's brownie sundae [Photograph: Ted's Bulletin] Brownie: Ted's Bulletin. The last time I had the malted brownie sundae I was seated at the bar. The bartender recommended a drizzle of Kahlua Midnight; when I tasted it I almost fainted. Gelato: Dolcezza. Every flavor is excellent and the consistency is perfect. The lemon opal basil sorbetto is one of the best things I've ever eaten. Candy Bar: Chuao Firecracker Bar (Bed Bath & Beyond). I realize that this isn't indicative of DC, but this candy bar is one of the most interesting things I've ever eaten (and until recently I had to trek out to Wegman's in Virginia to stock up on them). Dark chocolate bar with sea salt, smoky chipotle, and Pop Rocks. It's like a party in your mouth!
Zaytinya's Turkish Delight [Photograph: Zaytinya] Overall Desserts: Zaytinya & Fiola. I'm a little biased on Fiola, but Tom Wellings is a genius so it's justified. I order every dessert on the menu when I go to Zaytinya. Most of them I'll share, but not the Turkish Delight. Related: First Look at Astro Fried Chicken and Doughnuts    |
| Dear Slice: Texas Pizza Summit II Posted: 10 Jul 2013 10:04 AM PDT  VIEW SLIDESHOW: Dear Slice: Texas Pizza Summit II [Photographs: Texas Pizza Summit guests] This summer, Slice'r extraordinaire Craig Lindburg, aka TXCraig1, held his Second Annual Texas Pizza Summit at his Acunto-equipped Neapolitan garage. He was kind enough to send us the details, along with a bunch of mouthwatering photos. Next time, Craig, we'll take some plane tickets, instead...Seriously, this little get together sounds so good, it may be bringing some tears to my eyes. Shhh!
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| What's Your Favorite Diner in New York? Posted: 09 Jul 2013 08:25 PM PDT Inside Cup & Saucer, a decades-old diner in Chinatown. [Photograph: Robyn Lee] A while back at an editorial meeting, we got to talking about diners (like you do). Which led to a question: when does a Greek coffee shop stop being a Greek coffee shop and start being a diner? Ed's answer: When it feels like it's big time enough that it can." This is the kind of talk you can only have a in a town that really loves its diners. And even as New York's diner tradition falls by the wayside, it's still a powerful one. We've been hitting up some old diners on the Lower East Side of late, like Classic Coffee Shop and Cup & Saucer, and we want to know: what's your favorite diner (or coffee shop), and why do you love it there? Share your diner stories in the comments.    |
| Ask a Bartender: What Drink Would You Bring Back? Posted: 09 Jul 2013 03:48 PM PDT  VIEW SLIDESHOW: Ask a Bartender: What Drink Would You Bring Back? Sure, Old Fashioneds and Corpse Revivers might be back in fashion these days, but not every once-overlooked drink has made a comeback. We asked 13 bartenders: What drink would you like to bring back to popularity? Here's what they had to say. So much to drink, so little time. Keep in the loop with our weekly newsletter.    |
| A Sandwich a Day: The Bluefish L.T. at Home Port's Back Door in Menemsha, MA Posted: 10 Jul 2013 12:04 PM PDT The freshest bluefish in the simplest sandwich. [Photograph: Elizabeth Bomze] The B(luefish) L. T. ($12) is the sleeper hit on the menu at Home Port's Back Door in Menemsha (open for the season until at least Labor Day). And though it's not much to look at, it might just be the best sandwich on the western end of Martha's Vineyard. The thick, skin-on fillet, cut from fish that are pulled from Vineyard waters, is quickly seared and packed into a soft (but not squishy) burger bun with creamy tartar sauce, shredded iceberg, and a slice of tomato. Nothing unusual, except that bluefish this fresh is hard to come by, and serves as a reminder of what it's supposed to taste like: rich and savory, like dark meat, but subtly sweet and clean-tasting, with nary a drop of its usual "fishy" flavor. Home Port Back Door512 North Road, Menemsha, MA 02535 (map) About the author: Liz Bomze lives in Brookline, MA, and works as the Senior Features Editor for Cook's Illustrated Magazine. In her free time, she freelances regularly for the Boston Globe, Boston Magazine, the Improper Bostonian, and Martha's Vineyard Magazine; practices bread-baking and canning; takes photos; reads; and watches baseball. Top 5 foods: fresh noodles, gravlax, sour cherry pie, burrata, ma po tofu.    |
| Deep Fried Chicago: The Purple Pig Posted: 07 Jul 2013 01:37 PM PDT [Photograph: Joe Roy] Am I insane for being immediately reminded of Heaven on Seven when I first stepped into The Purple Pig? I don't think so. That slightly cramped, controlled chaos spills similarly, along with hunger inducing smoky cooking smells, from the kitchen at both places. And I could've sworn I spotted a wall of hot sauce. I'm exaggerating that last point (they're corked wine bottle lined walls, thank you very much), but apparently I can spot a Bannos—or his kin—when I see one. Most restaurants of this caliber make a fried food enthusiast for hire work for it when trying to select dishes. When I'm lucky, that beautiful "f" word will be in plain print, but all too often, I'm left politely inquiring just what the menu means by "crispy." The Purple Pig makes it easy, though, with most all dishes of interest relegated to their own section, simply labeled "Fried Items." Working your way down the list is as good a strategy as any, and one I employed most successfully. Pork Fried Almonds, Rosemary, and Garlic ($5.00, and from the "Antipasti" section, I should add) arrive to the table warm and plenty salted, with whole cloves of roasted garlic adding welcome sweetness. Contrasting the crunch of the lardy almonds, the fried rosemary leaves dissolve instantly on the tongue. We made a table wide pact to never eat lesser almonds again. The technique on the Fried Manchego Cheese with Membrillo ($8.00) is perfect: just the right amount of crispy breading gently enrobes the slightly melty cheese. Said cheese is salty and assertive in a way regular mozzarella just isn't. Come to think of it, whether marinara or ranch, I'd dip these into just about anything, but the sweet membrillo sauce is the best choice. The slight apple flavor cuts through the rich cheese, and the all-too-soon empty bowl didn't know what hit him. One bite into the Salt and Vinegar Beef Tendon Chips ($9.00), and I feel mislead. I've been carrying on, assuming that the best rinds come from pork, when this dish has been patiently awaiting me the whole time. Am I allowed to prefer beef in this context? Do I need to turn in my credentials? In any event, the vinegar taste is strong, in line with the theme, and the chips themselves practically melt in your mouth after first crunch. The fried parsley sprigs are a nice touch too, distilling concentrated parsley flavor into the dish and then disappearing quicker then they came. The Pig's Ear with Crispy Kale, Pickled Cherry Peppers, and Fried Egg ($9.00) appears to be the restaurant's signature dish, and it certainly looks the part. But its place at the end of the meal, after all its intensely seasoned predecessors, is a handicap: it comes across rather bland. The slivers of battered pig ear taste of breading, and little else. A more assertive sauce would help matters: egg yolk is always appreciated, but the pickled peppers just can't stand up to the dish's overwhelming richness. Some sort of vinegary sauce would work wonders. One visit in, and I'm already planning my return to The Purple Pig. I've barely scratched the surface of the expansive menu, and there are even more fried items to try. A man could get used to all this luxury, and I think it's safe to say that heaven just might be a bit more grounded than we thought. The Purple Pig500 N Michigan Avenue Chicago, IL 60611 (map)    |
He's not actually from St. Louis, though—Nashan grew up in Sante Fe, where he worked in his grandfather's restaurant. It's hard to pinpoint exactly what type of food he makes at his restaurant 
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